A Guide to Brooch Styles Through the Decades

If there's one piece of jewellery that I think deserves far more love than it gets, it's the brooch. Versatile, expressive, and often breathtakingly beautiful, brooches have been worn by everyone from Victorian ladies to Hollywood starlets to punk icons — and they're having a very well-deserved moment right now.

I've been collecting and selling vintage brooches for years, and I never tire of them. Each one tells a story. So let me take you on a little tour through brooch history, decade by decade, and show you what to look for.

Edwardian Era (1900–1910)

Edwardian brooches are among the most delicate and refined you'll ever find. This was the era of lace and light — jewellery was designed to complement the pale, ethereal fashions of the time. Look for bar brooches set with seed pearls, paste stones, or small diamonds in silver or white gold settings. Floral motifs, bows, and crescents were all popular. The craftsmanship is extraordinary, and genuine Edwardian pieces are increasingly hard to find.

Art Nouveau (1890s–1910s)

Art Nouveau overlaps with the Edwardian era but has a very distinct character. Inspired by the natural world, these brooches feature flowing, organic lines — dragonflies, flowers, female figures with flowing hair, and sinuous curves. Enamel work (particularly plique-à-jour, which resembles stained glass) is a hallmark of the style. René Lalique is the most famous name associated with Art Nouveau jewellery, though there were many talented makers. These pieces are genuinely artistic and highly collectible.

Art Deco (1920s–1930s)

If Art Nouveau was all curves and nature, Art Deco was its bold, geometric opposite. Brooches from this era are architectural and striking — think sharp angles, bold colour contrasts (black and white, red and gold), and a love of symmetry. Marcasite (iron pyrite, often set in silver) was hugely popular, as were onyx, coral, and paste stones in vivid colours. Dress clips — worn in pairs on a neckline or lapel — are a particularly glamorous Art Deco find. I wrote a whole post about my passion for Art Deco jewellery if you'd like to read more.

1940s — Wartime Glamour

The Second World War had a profound effect on jewellery. Precious metals were restricted, so makers turned to gold-plated base metals, sterling silver, and bold, patriotic motifs. Brooches became larger and more theatrical to compensate — sweetheart brooches (worn by women whose loved ones were serving), flag pins, and novelty brooches in the shape of animals, flowers, and figures all flourished. There's something deeply touching about 1940s jewellery; it carries real history.

1950s — Hollywood Glamour

Post-war optimism brought a return to femininity and sparkle. The 1950s were the golden age of costume jewellery, and brooches were at the heart of it. Aurora borealis crystals (introduced in 1955 by Swarovski in collaboration with Christian Dior) gave pieces an iridescent, magical quality. Floral sprays, starburst designs, and figural brooches — poodles, birds, and bows — were all the rage. American makers like Trifari, Coro, and Eisenberg produced some of the most beautiful pieces of the era.

1960s & 1970s — Bold and Experimental

The 1960s threw out the rulebook. Brooches became graphic, pop-art inspired, and often made from new materials like acrylic, enamel on copper, and even plastic. Space-age designs — circles, ovals, and abstract shapes — reflected the cultural obsession with modernity. By the 1970s, the mood shifted again: ethnic-inspired pieces, large statement enamel brooches, and natural motifs came into fashion alongside the decade's love of earthy tones and handcrafted aesthetics.

1980s — Bigger is Better

The 1980s brooch is impossible to miss. Power dressing demanded statement jewellery, and brooches delivered. Oversized, heavily rhinestoned, and often gilded within an inch of their life, 1980s brooches are joyfully maximalist. Designers like Butler & Wilson became household names. These pieces are enormous fun to wear and are currently very on-trend — don't overlook them.

How to Wear a Brooch Today

The beauty of a brooch is its versatility. Pin one to a lapel, a scarf, a hat, a bag, or even the neckline of a dress. Cluster several smaller brooches together for a modern, eclectic look. There are no rules — that's the joy of it.

Shop Vintage Brooches at Loved & Loved Again

I have a wonderful selection of vintage brooches spanning many of the eras above, all personally chosen and honestly described. If you're just starting a collection, a brooch is a wonderful place to begin — they're wearable, affordable, and endlessly varied.

And if you'd like to explore even further, I have over 8,000 vintage and antique jewellery pieces on my Etsy shop at lalavintagejewellery.etsy.com — including many more brooches across every era.

Happy hunting!

— Karen